Ephesus

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:01 am

Kusadasi, Turkey. We arrived during the night and this was my first view of it off the starboard side. Ashore, it was quite a clean and modern town. It had the obligatory Starbucks. Turkish security was a joke. They barely glanced at anyone’s passport. I suppose we didn’t look like Kurds.

Our group gathering at the beginning of the tour of Ephesos. The city was a port in antiquity but is now six miles from the sea due to silting of the Meander River. It is located between two huge hills, one is visible in this photo and the other,

in this one. At its peak in the second century archaeologists estimate the population at half a million which would have made it one of the largest cities in the world. From the finds in this area the archaeologists speculate about some sort of “farmer’s market” from the landward side, as opposed to the big agora which was at the other end of the road and near to the harbor gate.

A colonnade which is what remains of the basilica (government offices) directly opposite the aforementioned “State Agora.” One of our group was conveniently walking by to give it some scale.

Somewhere out there they have found ruins of public baths behind the agora. In fact, we were astounded to learn that they have excavated only about 15% of the site. The size of the whole archaeologically sensitive area is enormous. Our guide, John, who was a professor himself when he was not making real money guiding tours, (his words!) noted that most of the digging is done in the summer, when the heat is worst, because the archaeologists must get back to their classrooms for the fall semester. I can’t imagine trying to clear this area with a trowel and a brush.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:23 am

John, our guide, lecturing near the Palace of the Council, a civic building apparently. Believed to have been started by Augustus in the early first century.

These next two are of the same general area.

They need to do a lot of digging into that hill at some time in the future.

The beginning of Curetes Street, as they call it. This was the main route we followed through the city. The Roman roads were in surprisingly good condition.

Once again, standing on Curetes Street and facing to the SW, the archaeologists believe this entire area constituted residential neighborhoods of the city, as opposed to the commercial and official areas that they have excavated so far. As you can see, it has barely been touched.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:25 am

First view of the memorial of Memmius, who was apparently the grandson of Sulla a first century BC Roman general who campaigned in Asia Minor before heading back to Italy and marching on Rome to become the first dictator. One supposes he left Memmius behind to hold the fort.

The Square of Domitian with his temple from the first century AD. We didn’t get to walk down there because we had a number of elderly people in the group and the guide didn’t think they could handle it.

A better view of Memmius’ memorial.

A long shot of Hadrian’s temple.....I’ll have some closer shots coming up later.

The Greek Goddess of Victory which would have originally been on a temple pediment, probably for Domitian’s temple. It’s on the ground now which enabled this close-up shot.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 11:29 am

Three long shots down Curetes Street towards the library of Celsus.

About six columns down on the left we stopped while John explained that this was the site of the most current excavations going on. This mosaic floor had been recently uncovered

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The area is assumed to have been one in which there were shops on the ground floor and living apartments above. Most of the rest of the area was covered to protect the ongoing work.

I did take the opportunity to shoot back up Curetes Street...it's a steeper drop than this shot makes out...especially in 85 degrees and 85% humidity for poor souls like me who are not used to it!

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:08 pm

At Hadrian’s temple.

I tried to get a shot near the “holy of holies” so to speak but the shadows would not cooperate.

I finally gave up and moved into the light.

This shot shows a reconstruction of the top of Hadrian’s temple. The archaeologists pieced together the ruins to put it back together. Unlike in Crete, where Sir Arthur Evans has generated a lot of controversy by using modern concrete in his reconstructions, the teams here are trying to keep it real. You’ll see later on when we get to Crete what Evans has done.

A little beyond Hadrian is this structure where our guide had everyone sit down.....

I snapped this just as my wife reacted with predictable middle-class horror as John told everyone they were sitting on Roman public toilets. As we were leaving one woman asked “what did they use for toilet paper?” I told her “a sponge on a stick.....communal.” While she was grimacing John tried to help her out by saying “if you were rich enough you had your own.” She got the point instantly by saying “and if you weren’t rich enough you had to SHARE ONE!!!!” I don’t think she believed either of us. Probably envisioning a kind of Roman Scott’s Tissue company somewhere.

Anyway, when everyone was gone I snapped this shot of the vacant latrine. The sponges would have been kept in the trench which would have had water running through it.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:24 pm

The library of Celsus. One of our group had been to Ephesus 25 years ago and noted that at the time only the top story was visible. They have made some progress.

Across the square, and more or less next to the toilets and another bath house, was The Brothel.
The Romans did like their pleasure!

Next to the library were these archways, built by Mazaeus and dedicated to Augustus...always a good move to kiss up to the Emperor.

My Latin is a little weak but this inscription basically says something about Divine Augustus, Imperator Caesar....Pontifex Maximus and Twelve times consul.....

Mazaeus gets his own name in prominently on the bottom.

Just another shot of the brothel area.....you can tell I would have made a great Roman!

Through the gates onto what was called Marble Street.

There was some sort of promenade on the right leading to the Amphitheater. The main agora was on the other side as we are getting down towards the harbor area.

And the main agora to the left. The area would have been like a flea market with lots of semi-permanent structures put up for merchants.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:30 pm

Finally a couple of shots of the amphitheater but I’m going to try to scan a postcard I bought because the site is far too vast for my poor little camera to capture. I’ll add it on later if the scan comes out.

The harbor road. Much wider than Curetes Street or even Marble street and in an amazing state of preservation. Clearly designed for cart traffic to and from the docks.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:51 pm

The scan of the postcard.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:52 pm

Whew....

Next stop, Rhodes.

Beagle · Post by **Beagle** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:57 pm

Fantastic Min!!

Barracuda · Post by **Barracuda** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 1:31 pm

WOW! I lived in Izmir when I was a child and we used to go visit Ephesus for the day. It was all over my head back then, but I really want to return someday

Frank Harrist · Post by **Frank Harrist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:35 pm

Dude! Excellent photography! I couldn't help notice that although there were several of them, all of the shots of the Brothel were from a distance. Wife wouldn't let you get closer, eh?

Bob, I had you pictured in my mind as looking a whole lot different.

Oh yeah and if you'd clambered up onto them rocks you could have gotten the same shot as the postcard. This is very entertaining and informative. Can't wait for the next installment.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:44 pm

all of the shots of the Brothel were from a distance. Wife wouldn't let you get closer, eh?

Yeah...she learned that lesson in Pompeii where the brothel was in remarkably good shape.

Post by **Minimalist** » Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:47 pm

Barracuda wrote:WOW! I lived in Izmir when I was a child and we used to go visit Ephesus for the day. It was all over my head back then, but I really want to return someday

Yeah, B., saw the signs for Izmir (Ancient Smyrna) as well as Halicarnassos, Pergamun, and Miletus, all relatively nearby. Talk about a rich history. As our guide said, Turkey has more Greek ruins than Greece and more Roman ruins than Italy. Wouldn't dare argue with him.