Thank You I feel Better now.

Digit · Post by **Digit** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 3:31 pm

True enough RS, I only collected them because they represent some very fine engineering.

Rokcet Scientist · Post by **Rokcet Scientist** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 3:38 pm

Digit wrote:
True enough RS, I only collected them because they represent some very fine engineering.

If you're a little bit careful with 'm they could be part of the estate you'll leave...

AD · Post by AD » Wed Jul 04, 2007 11:43 pm

Hi Charlie...

F.M. beat me to it! I was going to direct your attention to that web page last night, but first had to do my annual patriotic duty of celebrating our nation's independence by setting off loud and obnoxious fireworks with the kid, drinking beer, evading the cops, etc.

That piece you showed last is one of your more convincing flints in a really old style - assuming it is actually artificial, which I'd bet it is. Photographing the flaking to full advantage would be very helpful to your case. There are only a very few edged flint artifacts at my site (imported), and I have not given much attention to photographing the edges, having concentrated on capturing the incorporated iconography in the other lithic material. You and I are approaching "anomalous" but real artifact material from different but equally important perspectives - so maybe it's apples and oranges, but I've found that setting the incident angle of the lighting is critical in bringing out the often subtle details in the stones here. Take a look at that web page, and just experiment a bit. And note that using a flash has almost never worked for me; it really washes things out.

Digital cameras are a godsend for experimenters, aren't they? Electrons are significantly less expensive than film.

Good luck and have fun!

Alan

Charlie Hatchett · Post by **Charlie Hatchett** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:13 am

Thanks for all the advice, guys. I've got a batch I'm about to post that have scale and I've toyed with the light a bit. I'm operating with a $140.00 Wal-Mart special, so my first upgrade will be a better camera. Next I'd like to get some pro lighting and gear. Keep the advice coming!!

Beagle · Post by **Beagle** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:24 am

Hey Charlie. I realize that showing one of those little measuring devices is the "proper" way to display your photos, but they often leave me having to think for a second, especially if it's in metric.

You have always used a common item that everyone is instantly familiar with, such as a lighter, etc. The best indicater of scale for me has always been a coin. In any case, you've always been good about showing scale.

Charlie Hatchett · Post by **Charlie Hatchett** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 7:54 am

Beagle wrote:Hey Charlie. I realize that showing one of those little measuring devices is the "proper" way to display your photos, but they often leave me having to think for a second, especially if it's in metric.

You have always used a common item that everyone is instantly familiar with, such as a lighter, etc. The best indicater of scale for me has always been a coin. In any case, you've always been good about showing scale.

Hey Beags.

I just posted an artifact in the preClovis thread using an old ruler for scale (inches). The next one I'll try with a coin. Maybe after that I'll try one with a pen knife or Zippo lighter. If you and the guys will give me feedback, it will be much appreciated.

Beagle · Post by **Beagle** » Thu Jul 05, 2007 8:01 am

Will do Charlie. I'll wait 'till you get them all up.

Rokcet Scientist · Post by **Rokcet Scientist** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:09 am

Charlie and Beags,
something to may want to consider: using a coin, Zippo lighter, pack of cigarettes, etc. to show scale makes for a nice, even a 'sympathetic' picture, and gives a good impression of scale. However, it is still just an impression. It is not precise, read: 'scientific'. While a ruler is of course.

Digit · Post by **Digit** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:32 am

C and B. If you'll use a quarter it is as near as damn it 0ne Inch in diameter and near the same as the UK's Two Pence coin.

Charlie Hatchett · Post by **Charlie Hatchett** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:25 am

Rokcet Scientist wrote:Charlie and Beags,
something to may want to consider: using a coin, Zippo lighter, pack of cigarettes, etc. to show scale makes for a nice, even a 'sympathetic' picture, and gives a good impression of scale. However, it is still just an impression. It is not precise, read: 'scientific'. While a ruler is of course.

True, and a ruler seems to "fit" into the image without having to use excessive borders. If you have some extra "fly miles" accumulated, you're more than welcome to come snap away on the artifacts. And, of course, we can put your credits on the bottom of each. It's along way for you, though...

Charlie Hatchett · Post by **Charlie Hatchett** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 4:26 am

Digit wrote:C and B. If you'll use a quarter it is as near as damn it 0ne Inch in diameter and near the same as the UK's Two Pence coin.

I'll tinker with a quarter and a ruler today. Appreciate your feedback.

Rokcet Scientist · Post by **Rokcet Scientist** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:07 am

Charlie Hatchett wrote:
I'm operating with a $140.00 Wal-Mart special, so my first upgrade will be a better camera. Next I'd like to get some pro lighting and gear. Keep the advice coming!!

1) you can't buy good photos! Yes, appropriate gear (doesn't have to cost thousands!) is required, but not enough by a long shot!
It's much more important that you know what you're doing. Chances are your Walmart Special's features and specifications easily outperform the cameras Robert Capa or Henri Cartier-Bresson used (world famous photographers). Just like the PC you're working on right now has 100 times the computing power that was on board the Apollo vehicles to the moon...

2) you need a camera with good macro features, a selftimer, optical (!) zoom, a pop-up flash; a tripod; a separate external flashgun (with its own stand, often included), not neccessarily a very strong (nor expensive) one; a "slave-eye" (10 bucks).

3) avoid "pro" stuff unless you prefer to pay "pro" prices.

4) for your macro photos you can fashion diffusers and reflectors easily – and cheap! – with standard stock white letter paper, some glue, a handful of kids' drinking straws (to make frames of), and some ingenuity and elbow grease!

Have fun!

Forum Monk · Post by **Forum Monk** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:10 am

No offense, Beagle, but the scale must be in International Units or at minimum a dual scale with metric and imperial.

U.S. coins are probably meaningless to the rest of the world. (even if U.S. dollars are not!)

Digit · Post by **Digit** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:48 am

That's why I suggested a Quarter Monk, as close as makes no difference it's One Inch or 25 Mil. If the readers aren't using Metric or Imperial they probably ain't measuring!

Charlie Hatchett · Post by **Charlie Hatchett** » Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:11 am

Rokcet Scientist wrote:
Charlie Hatchett wrote:
I'm operating with a $140.00 Wal-Mart special, so my first upgrade will be a better camera. Next I'd like to get some pro lighting and gear. Keep the advice coming!!

1) you can't buy good photos! Yes, appropriate gear (doesn't have to cost thousands!) is required, but not enough by a long shot!
It's much more important that you know what you're doing. Chances are your Walmart Special's features and specifications easily outperform the cameras Robert Capa or Henri Cartier-Bresson used (world famous photographers). Just like the PC you're working on right now has 100 times the computing power that was on board the Apollo vehicles to the moon...

2) you need a camera with good macro features, a selftimer, optical (!) zoom, a pop-up flash; a tripod; a separate external flashgun (with its own stand, often included), not neccessarily a very strong (nor expensive) one; a "slave-eye" (10 bucks).

3) avoid "pro" stuff unless you prefer to pay "pro" prices.

4) for your macro photos you can fashion diffusers and reflectors easily – and cheap! – with standard stock white letter paper, some glue, a handful of kids' drinking straws (to make frames of), and some ingenuity and elbow grease!

Have fun!

Thanks, R/S.

So it seems my priorities at this point should be purchasing a tripod, utilizing a diffuser and reflector, and using a metric/ IFRAO scale. After that, an external flashgun and slave-eye

It appears the HP Photosmart M525 I'm using has all the specs you mentioned, except the pop-up flash